Patrick Roger's white nougat

Face to face between the craftsman and his product...

Pierre Hermé appreciates it. The gastronomic press praises it. From the workshops of Sceaux of the famous chocolate maker, this monument of Provençal gastronomic heritage has nevertheless reached new heights. Meet.

Photo: Philippe Vaurès Santamaria

A long story, that of white nougat and Patrick Roger. “More than 30 years on the clock! “, recognizes the Meilleur Ouvrier de France. And for good reason: “For centuries, confectionery has been the chocolate maker’s primary profession. Like his peers before him, before knowing how to work with chocolate, the young Patrick learned how to make caramels, pralines… and nougat. Despite the years, the ritual has not changed. First, whisk the egg whites. Then, mix with the honey and the cooked sugar, at about 165°C, before drying the mixture for about twenty minutes, until it reaches the desired consistency, to the touch. Then add the roasted dried fruit and spread the whole thing between two unleavened sheets. Finally, leave to harden for 24 hours and detail this soft nougat.

Easy on paper. There remains the choice of raw materials. Patrick Roger produces his own almonds with the greatest care on his Occitan lands. Same application when buying pistachios this time. From Sicily please. Not to mention the helping hand. “A gesture of love! “, ignites the interested party. And to praise the contact with the material, the exact moment of perfect cooking measured with the fingertips… And too bad if it costs him. Time, manpower, money… “Because it's so good, because I'm… XXX! »