Audrey and Xinhui's microgreens

Face to face between the craftsman and his product...

In 2016, this self-taught couple created Hydropousse, the first indoor vertical farm in Paris. Visit.

Photos: Philippe Vaurès Santamaria

The Great Neighbors. This is the name given to the plural space set up in the premises of the former Saint-Vincent-de-Paul hospital. A stone's throw from Denfert-Rochereau, over thousands of m2, there is a swarm of daytime reception for asylum seekers, associations, craftsmen, young companies...

Among them, Hydropousse, installed from the year of its creation, in 2016, in a former operating theater on the site. Its safe power supply and filtered ventilation lend themselves particularly well to indoor cultivation. In any case, better than the 30 m2 of the Montreuil living room of the founding couple, transformed in two spoonfuls into an urban farm. The enthusiasm aroused among Parisian chefs does the rest. “One was enough, then very quickly a dozen followed, up to a hundred now! Today, Audrey Bonneil and her companion, Xinhui Xu, watch over a 160 m2 basement, where lemon basil, oxalys, flat-leaf parsley, marigold, coriander grow… No window.

Majestic metal shelves. A whole technical ecosystem guaranteeing artificial lighting for 16 hours a day, a constant temperature of 25°C, a humidity rate of around 70%, closed-circuit watering, suitable ventilation to provide the CO2 necessary for the photosynthesis... "The ideal conditions", according to Xinhui. This conviction, the IT developer who was acquired it on the Internet. His guide at the time of self-training, in particular with Dutch sites, “particularly at the forefront in this field”. But the environment is not everything. “Behind the technique, there is the use we make of it. They have decided to produce good. For the planet and for their customers.

Our two entrepreneurs prefer coconut fiber to recycled wool, which has the best carbon footprint. For the same reasons, they refrain from canvassing chefs outside of Paris and its inner suburbs. And of course, no pesticides or other synthetic treatments are administered. In terms of taste, they promote gentle growth, making it possible to better respect the cycle of micro-shoots, from their germination in a few days to their development beyond the cotyledons. “These first leaves do not have all the organoleptic qualities of the following ones. So be patient. And not only. On a case-by-case basis, Xinhui stimulates certain plants. Here, by exposing them to more light, so that they produce a defense essential oil that enhances their flavors.

There, by ventilating them to firm up their stem and offer more resistance in the mouth. Results ? Cut at the requested stage of maturity and size, the micro-shoots are delivered to the chefs the day after they are harvested. “Compared to 4 to 5 days for those purchased in Holland. They actually enjoy a much better longevity. “For almost 7 days, our plants continue to offer a beautiful intensity in the mouth. Or, a single order per week, no sorting or washing before each use, and tastes at the top. Something to delight the skeptics of indoor growing...